Climbing (September 2013)
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Climbing offers the entire climbing world: sport, trad, bouldering, walls, ice, alpine and mountains. In each issue we offer the richest stories on the vertical world you'll ever read, with award-winning photography. Climbing has earned its moniker as the journal of record for climbers worldwide.
gains the top (5.5 R). Be careful how the rope runs over the sharp edge of the tower. A free-hanging 25-meter rappel brings you back down. Lowe Route (aka Adolescent Homosexual or Adolescent Homosapien), Decadent Wall This climb and the neighboring Carol’s Crack (5.8) both start with scrambling and then steepen to an interesting crux headwall. A 70-meter rope is nice but not essential for the climbing.co m | 43 » Bring a stick-clip or learn how to make one (climbing .com/stick-clip). Many
is one of the best thin corner cracks anywhere. Boulder up to a bolt (a stick-clip is nice), and then crank up to the bottom of the corner. Place a nest of small nuts and work up one engaging move after another, with a technical layback crux, to easier climbing near the bolt anchor at the top. Beware of Nesting Egos, Elephant Rock With three well-spaced bolts in nearly 100 feet, supplemented by trad pro, this 5.11b classic requires serious skills and steady nerves. A ﬁnger crack, wild traverses,
nuts, it takes practice to extract them quickly and consistently. * When placing, keep the head visible and close enough to the outside of the crack so the second can easily reach it. Your follower will likely use his ﬁngertips to remove the unit. * Think about how the Tricam went in. If it’s in the bottom of an obvious constriction, shimmy the piece upward (toward the wider spot) to pull it out. * You can use a nut tool for extraction. Hook the fulcrum with the tool, and hold the head in place
audition. He then moved on to the frigid riverside boulders of Shiobara, where he made the second ascent of a V15 roof called Hydrangea. Impressed with Danielsan’s undeniable power and boundless enthusiasm, Hirayama invited him on the trip of a lifetime to Mt. Kinabalu where the REEL ROCK cameras captured the adventure. BRETT LOWELL/REEL ROCK FILM TOUR 12 | SEPT EMBER 2013 climbing.com | 13 FLASH High Tension: Ueli Steck and the Clash on Everest Ueli Steck Mt. Everest, Himalaya Everest
CLIMBING SPECIFIC *These moves are performed on a systems board or hangboard. 1. Repeater: Choose a hold on the systems board that is a weakness for you (e.g., a pinch or sloper; ideally, there are pairs of similar holds lined up on the board). With ﬁxed feet (meaning they don’t move during the exercise), grab on to a set at the same level, and then reach up to the next set one hand at a time. Without moving your feet, reach back down to the starting point. Repeat the movement, and alternate the