The New Book of Middle Eastern Food
Format: PDF / Kindle (mobi) / ePub
In this updated and greatly enlarged edition of her Book of Middle Eastern Food, Claudia Roden re-creates a classic. The book was originally published here in 1972 and was hailed by James Beard as "a landmark in the field of cookery"; this new version represents the accumulation of the author's thirty years of further extensive travel throughout the ever-changing landscape of the Middle East, gathering recipes and stories.
Now Ms. Roden gives us more than 800 recipes, including the aromatic variations that accent a dish and define the country of origin: fried garlic and cumin and coriander from Egypt, cinnamon and allspice from Turkey, sumac and tamarind from Syria and Lebanon, pomegranate syrup from Iran, preserved lemon and harissa from North Africa. She has worked out simpler approaches to traditional dishes, using healthier ingredients and time-saving methods without ever sacrificing any of the extraordinary flavor, freshness, and texture that distinguish the cooking of this part of the world.
Throughout these pages she draws on all four of the region's major cooking styles:
- The refined haute cuisine of Iran, based on rice exquisitely prepared and embellished with a range of meats, vegetables, fruits, and nuts
- Arab cooking from Syria, Lebanon, and Jordan--at its finest today, and a good source for vegetable and bulgur wheat dishes
- The legendary Turkish cuisine, with its kebabs, wheat and rice dishes, yogurt salads, savory pies, and syrupy pastries
- North African cooking, particularly the splendid fare of Morocco, with its heady mix of hot and sweet, orchestrated to perfection in its couscous dishes and tagines
From the tantalizing mezze--those succulent bites of filled fillo crescents and cigars, chopped salads, and stuffed morsels, as well as tahina, chickpeas, and eggplant in their many guises--to the skewered meats and savory stews and hearty grain and vegetable dishes, here is a rich array of the cooking that Americans embrace today. No longer considered exotic--all the essential ingredients are now available in supermarkets, and the more rare can be obtained through mail order sources (readily available on the Internet)--the foods of the Middle East are a boon to the home cook looking for healthy, inexpensive, flavorful, and wonderfully satisfying dishes, both for everyday eating and for special occasions.
(In the past they had dried meat by hanging thin strips in the open, or preserved it by burying it in fat.) Ancient ways were molded to the new demands of the court—a distinctive general style developed with avors from as far as Spain and Turkistan, with regional variations. 3. The grander dishes were Iranian. Their origins are revealed in the Arab repertoire today by their names ending in -ak and -aj. Techniques of cooking and ele gant ways were adopted from conquered Iran, which had been the
at my parents' and gatherings of friends at my home became occasions to summon up the ghosts of the past. Every dish lled the house with the smells of our old homes. They conjured up memories of Egypt —of the Cairo markets and street vendors, of the corniche in Alexandria and the public bakehouse, of Groppi's and the Hati restaurant, and the Greek grocery down to which a constant ow of baskets would be lowered from windows above, descending with coins, and going up again with food. It is
made in Lebanon is less sweet than an Iranian variety. Rosebuds. A powerfully aromatic variety of rose from Damascus is used to perfume strong spice mixtures. In Egypt we used to leave rosebuds about in little plates to embalm the air. I once walked into a restaurant which was a converted house in the Medina in Marrakesh to nd myself treading on a soft carpet of deli-ciously scented rose petals. Rose water (mai ward), the distilled essence of rose petals, is used to scent syrups, pastries, and
adding water so that it does not dry out, and lifting the lid to reduce the sauce at the end. Serve cold. Celeriac with Turmeric Serves 6 • The celeriac acquires a special delicate avor and a pale-yellow tinge. 2 celeriac, weighing about 2 pounds 3 cloves garlic, crushed 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil ¼ teaspoon turmeric Salt and pepper 2 teaspoons sugar Juice of 1 lemon Peel and wash the celeriac and cut into pieces of roughly the same size (about 1 inch). Put them in a saucepan with the
rest of the ingredients and enough water to cover. Cook, uncovered for 10—15 minutes, over low heat, until the celeriac is soft and the liquid is absorbed, turning the pieces over and raising the heat, if necessary, to reduce the sauce at the end. Serve cold. Taratorlu Kereviz Celeriac and Carrots with Nut Sauce Serves 6 • In Turkey all kinds of vegetables, including cauli ower and green beans, are dressed with a nut sauce called tarator. Here celeriac and carrots make a good combination of