Bali's charms are many, whether you want to surf its rugged coastlines, go diving at fashionable hot spots, or explore the island's lush interior and celebrated cultural heart, Ubud, a magnet for art-lovers and a showcase for Bali's fascinating traditions. On Lombok, trek up Gunung Rinjani, one of Indonesia's highest peaks, or escape to the remote, white sandy beaches of the Gili Islands.
For all the experiences you're looking for, you'll find detailed practical advice and how to make the most of your time with The Rough Guide to Bali & Lombok.
indicators that the ritual was once again needed, and these beliefs were confirmed by a plague of rats that overran the entire island in 1962. The climax of the festival was set for March 8, 1963, but on February 18, Gunung Agung, which had been dormant for centuries, started rumbling; fire glowed within the crater and ash began to coat the area. Initially, this was interpreted as a good omen sent by the gods to purify Besakih, but soon doubts crept in. Some argued that the wrong date had been
society, only Brahmans are allowed to become high priests (pedanda). Satriya (sometimes spelt Ksatriya) form the second strata of Balinese society, and these families are descendants of warriors and rulers. The Balinese rajas were all Satriya and their offspring continue to bear telltale names: Cokorda, Anak Agung, Ratu and Prebagus for men, and Anak Agung Isti or Dewa Ayu for women. The merchants or Wesia occupy the third most important rank, the men distinguished by the title I Gusti
among people where communal life is at the heart of their existence. Expulsion also means the loss of the right to burial and cremation within the village. The subak Much of the daily life of a village revolves around the sawah, or ricefields. The local organization controlling each irrigation system is the subak; these have existed on Bali since the ninth century, and are made up of all the farmers who use the water in that system. The maintenance of the irrigation system, along with complex
Balinese Prince (o/p). Fascinating autobiography of the son of the last raja of Karangasem, who was born in east Bali in 1919, became Bali’s most influential doctor, and lived through Dutch rule, World War II, the eruption of Gunung Agung and the communist killings. Fred B. Eiseman Jr Bali: Sekala and Niskala Vols 1 and 2. Seminal, essential, wide-ranging anthologies of cultural and anthropological essays by an American expat. David J. Fox Once a Century: Pura Besakih and the Eka Dasa Rudra
parking barrier 0856 391 1211, galihhomestay@yahoo.com; map. This surfer-friendly place 200m from the breaks provides eight clean, good-quality tiled rooms (fan and a/c) set around a garden courtyard, all with attached cold-water bathrooms. Rp200,000 The Gong Jl Labuhan Sait, 1km west of Pantai Suluban 0361 769976, thegonguluwatubali.com; map. While a little frayed at the edges, Uluwatu’s first homestay remains a good choice: relaxed and with clean rooms (including bunks for sharing surfers) in